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Vacationing in Japan – Part 2.1: Hakone

Hakone Travel Guide

Hakone

One of our mini-trips from Tokyo was a sightseeing trip to Hakone, with the goal of seeing Mount Fuji and the hot springs.

Hakone-Tozan line trainGetting there is, to the least, complicated. First the subway lines to get you to a the special quaint Hakone-Tozan line train which zigzags (or if you want to be picky, it has “switchbacks”) a path up the mountain. The scenery was beautiful, and the tracks were lined with
Hydrangea , although the gorgeous (and yet cute) scenery was difficult to appreciate when one spent the entire night unable to breath while losing all the contents of their stomach, due to an allergic reaction to a pain medicine disguised as ”not aspirin”.

The next step was a more technically advanced and impressive looking Hozan- Tozan cable car which is a “funicular railway” – basically meaning instead of going “along” it goes up a very steep incline.

Our “carriage” Hanging out

Once it had chugged it’s way as far to the top as it could go, we were left at the station for the Hakone Ropeway! It’s an aerial lift that took us from Sōunzan to Tōgendai with a pit stop at the peak – Ōwakudani which has an elevation of 1,044m – 3,425 feet (keep in mind that Tokyo’s elevation is 19m – or 59 feet if you prefer). It travels Lake Ashi, a crater lake formed from the volcano (doesn’t that sound exiting?) of Mount Hakone. It sounds like something fantastic and amazing to see, right?

The mists of Avalon?

Well we don’t know because we didn’t see a thing. Rain rain rain, more rain, and mist. Oh and more rain. So no steaming fissures for us, no terrifyingly high views of the world… although I have to admit that seeing the cables go off into absolutely nothing was more terrifying than most rollercoasters I’ve been on.

Pirate Ship coming out of the Mists à la Pirates of the Carribean

We tried to console ourselves with the idea that the “pirate” ships on the lake would give us a better view, as well as a fun trip, but upon reaching the end of the ropeway, we saw a notice informing us that the boats were not running due to the inclement weather. Joy.

Jotting down some notes

Instead we had the dubious honour of a reserved seat on the bus to take us all the way back to Tokyo. But at least we got to catch up on our sleep! (And I even managed to jot down some commentary in my travel journal!)

… or seat, depends

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Reviews of places we’ve stayed in Japan

Asakusa Vista Hotel, Tokyo

Bed with a viewThe hotel was very well situated for our needs. It was close to the subway station, and in a quiet neighbourhood, aside from the strange consistency of one lone ambulance every night around 2am. The blanket was oddly plastic-like, but the bed was very comfortable as were the pillows. The air conditioning was efficient and not too loud, and the bathtub was clean even if it was oddly square in the Japanese style. Everything was very clean and kept clean by the cleaning service (they even covered a cup of tea to keep dust out of it… oddly enough). As an extra bonus, the toilet wasn’t just a toilet, it was a Gadget! Wee!
Evolved toilet seatDon’t bother trying to use the restaurant in the hotel though. The times are listed differently on every sign and the personnel pretends to want to help you with your order but then informs you a few minutes later that the restaurant is, in fact, closed.

Rikiya, Kyoto

Futon bedroomFirst, a warning: absolutely do NOT stay here if you have an allergy or sensitivity to mould or dust. Asthmatic problems for instance. If you can get past that, it’s an absolutely beautiful ryokan, and our room even had a small sitting room with glass doors leading out to a small garden filled with tiny frog statues. The room itself gives an impression of age, with it’s statue from the city of Kyushu and decorations. The futon was comfortable but really the tatami matted floor was so comfortable we managed to roll off the bed and onto the floor without noticing.

Another warning is that the map is of practically no use at all. It’s more of a suggestion than any usefulness, other than to take a taxi and point at the ryokan on it.

The personnel is a bit difficult to classify because two of them seemed quite pleasant and nice, always smiling and helpful. And another one of the older women working there seemed almost vicious. I guess the bad makes you appreciate the good all the more, right?

Mini garden outside our room
We also experienced taking a Japanese style bath for the first (last and only) time in this ryokan. It’s so hot it’s like being boiled alive. I’m not sure that’s unusual but do take your time getting into the bath, and take as many breaks from the water as you need to adjust to the sensation of being cooked alive. The experience reminds me of the story I was told as a kid. I was told that you could boil a frog alive if you just kept turning the heat up only a small amount, because they wouldn’t jump out if the temperature changed slowly enough. We took that to mean that a frog was a bit stupid. But how stupid are humans who throw themselves into boiling hot water to “relax”? (And the water was at least 45C, according to the temperature readings I’ve read at the other Japanese style baths).

The neighbourhood is classic old Kyoto and while there’s no lack of temples in Kyoto, you certainly get a good starting point for seeing some of the largest when you stay here. It’s a lovely place to take a walk, and situated close to the river which is also a picturesque area for walking.

Carpe Diem, Osaka

We had the… pleasure… of staying both in the hostel room area and the tea room. The difference between these two rooms is like night vs. day. The ryokan isn’t too far away from the subway station, and if you’re good with maps they do provide very good instructions on how to walk there. Look out for insanely swerving bike lanes.

It’s a family run operation, which makes it lose some business efficiency. I’m sure they mean well, but being told repeatedly that you were wrong to come to the ryokan before 3pm, even when all you want to do is leave your luggage, isn’t the nicest way to start your stay.

They provide a communal kitchen, bath/shower room (with a sign-up sheet for taking a bath) and western style toilet in a separate house from the rooms. The hostel rooms have a mould filled sink for washing clothes in, apparently, a small normal sink for washing your hands, a urinal and a hole-in-the-floor style toilet. The tea room has an immaculate large sink with space for toiletries, as well as a western style toilet with all the fun Japanese bidet features. The hostel room is bare of any decoration, and is merely functional at the best. The tea room was much more relaxing and home-like. The tea room is actually three separate areas with a room with a table, a small room with screens for a bedroom, and the sink and toilet area. It’s all contained within sliding glass doors, with a walkway, and then sliding rice paper doors. It feels very private and relaxing, especially compared to the hostel room area where only a thin paper sliding door kept us separate from a group of five French tourists returning to the ryokan at 4am. But it’s nice that you’re given a key to the outer doors and can come back when you wish without a curfew.

If you can overlook a hostile welcome, the garden alone makes the ryokan a nice place to stay. It’s absolutely gorgeous and the ponds have tiny kois. There is the problem of the Japanese cicadas waking up sometime around 5-6am and being so loud it’s a wonder you can hear the alarm clock… but it’s all part of the charm of staying in a foreign country, right?

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